Insulation Calculator

How much insulation your attic or walls need to hit target R-value, what it costs, what it saves every year — and how fast it pays for itself.

Estimates for planning. Savings depend on your climate, air sealing, and how your house actually performs — insulation only works if air leaks are sealed first. Attics also need ventilation and safe clearances around recessed lights, chimneys and flues. A blower-door energy audit beats any calculator.

sq ft

Usually close to the footprint of the floor below.

Prices are DIY material only; installed prices run higher.

$

Used to estimate savings — the attic is typically 25–35% of a home's heat loss.

You need

inches added

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DetailAmount
R-value added
Material cost
After tax credit
Estimated annual saving
Simple payback
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How Insulation Savings Are Calculated

Heat loss through a surface is proportional to 1 ÷ R-value. Doubling R doesn't double your savings — it halves the remaining loss, which is why the first inches matter enormously and the last inches barely register.

  1. Depth needed = (target R − current R) ÷ R-per-inch of your material.
  2. Loss reduction = 1 − (Rold ÷ Rnew), counting the assembly itself. Even a bare wall has about R-4 from drywall, sheathing, siding and air films, and a bare ceiling about R-3 — so an empty cavity is never truly R-0. Going R-19 → R-49 cuts attic loss about 58%.
  3. Dollar saving = that reduction × the share of your bill lost through that surface (attics ≈ 30%, walls ≈ 25%).
  4. Payback = net cost after the tax credit ÷ annual saving.

Worked example — 1,200 sq ft attic, R-19 → R-49, blown fiberglass, $1,500/yr bill: 12 inches added, about $1,080 in material, ~$260/yr saved → roughly 2.9 years payback after the credit.

Why the First Inches Pay and the Last Ones Don't

UpgradeHeat loss removedVerdict
R-0 → R-19~86% of what was escapingEnormous — do this immediately
R-19 → R-3846% of remainingExcellent return
R-38 → R-4921% of remainingStill worth it in cold climates
R-49 → R-6017% of remainingMarginal outside cold zones

R-Value Per Inch by Material

MaterialR per inchInches for R-49Notes
Blown fiberglass2.5~20"Cheapest per R; settles slightly
Fiberglass batts3.2~15"Easy DIY between joists
Blown cellulose3.5~14"Better air blocking, recycled content
Closed-cell spray foam6.5~8"Air seals too; several times the price

Before You Buy

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Frequently Asked Questions

What R-value should my attic be?

R-49 to R-60 across most of the US; R-30 to R-49 in the warmest zones. Many older homes sit at R-19 or below.

How much does attic insulation save?

R-19 → R-49 cuts attic loss ~60%. On a $1,500/yr bill that's often $150–$300 a year, paying back in 3–6 years.

Is there a tax credit?

30% of insulation and air-sealing cost, capped at $1,200 per year, through at least 2032. The cap resets annually.

How many inches for R-49?

~20" blown fiberglass, ~14" cellulose, ~8" closed-cell foam.

Insulate before a heat pump?

Usually yes — a tighter house needs a smaller unit, and both carry their own credits.

Can I add over old insulation?

In an attic, yes, if it's dry and uncompacted; R-values add. Never faced batts on top.

Built and maintained by MeasureQuik. R-value recommendations and material figures follow US Department of Energy and ENERGY STAR guidance listed below. Found an error? Tell us — we fix fast.

References

  1. US Department of Energy — insulation R-value recommendations by climate zone: energy.gov
  2. ENERGY STAR — sealing and insulating, and federal tax credits: energystar.gov
  3. Oak Ridge National Laboratory — insulation performance research: ornl.gov

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